Casualty Markers

Infantry casualty marker - Redline figures

One of the challenges in 10mm is accounting for casualties. Because they are based in larger numbers, individual removal is problematic. Because I have lots of units on the table, a paper based one would be confusing, and a computer based one. So a marker is necessary.

In the "Republic to Empire" rules casualties are only removed after half the unit is gone. This represents the "thinning" of the line while losing effectiveness. Regrouping after heavy losses would result in smaller frontages. So I need to make a counter up to around 12 which represents two stands of infantry or 3 of cavalry.

There are a number of commercially available dials and counters. Litko make a nice laser cut one in coloured plastic. They were a bit expensive ($5.99 for 2) and the nice plastic would stand out on the table too much. They were also a bit thick.

Home made dial sheet and Jim's goodies

The Dial Dude had some funky looking ones with flags, a bit cheaper. But he seems to be not making them at the moment and not answering emails.

So I thought I'd make some. I wanted them to blend into the table, but still be noticeable on what they were recording.

I talked to Jim at Litko about his flexible steel and flexible magnetic bases. They were not rigid enough by themselves so I needed to get a .8mm plywood top on them. I thought I could have the plywood and flexible steel on the top and the magnet on the bottom. Unfortunately the magnet sticks on one side, the side without the adhesive, so I have had to glue the paper dial on the magnetic side. I ordered 100 30mm circles in the plywood, flexible steel and flexible magnet ($46 plus shipping - much better).

Parts waiting to come together. The magnetic sheet is already stuck to the plywood

For the dials I made up a sheet using Inkscape, a free vector drawing program. I wanted to use a vector program as the numbers would render better as I bent them round the circle. And I needed an accurate way of printing 30mm circles easily.


If anyone wants the files you can download an .svg vector file or a .pdf version. The dials go from 1 to 12. Feel free to modify them as you need. They are a clone tiled, so by changing the top left one, the others should all change.


I then cut a wedge out of the plywood/steel combination with a chisel. Be careful of which way the grain goes as it may split if you cut along the grain. It is assembled from top to bottom -

plywood

paper dial

magnetic sheet

steel sheet

The flexible steel base keeps is together. The wedge needed to be big enough to only show one number, including the 10 11 and 12, without showing any others.

Assembled dial

Redlines outstanding little casualty vignette. 

Now for the scenic treatment. Not a lot of options in the 10mm casualty range. Which is a shame, it is these little details which really appeal to the wargamer, especially when it helps with the game play and atmosphere.


Redline has some fantastic little two person scenes of a soldier holding his dying mate. The figures are "generic" in that they are bare headed (I managed to get one with a stovepipe shako somehow?) and have a simple uniform with crossed belts. I undercoated them red and blue, then painted the up as British and French Line. Maybe I should have done one with one of each showing a little compassion across the field. They are exquisite little figures that really come up well when painted. Hopefully the photo is clear enough to see them. They are not listed in Bend Sinister's shop. Si normally pops a couple in when you have a decent order. I've collected 9 so far. I'll have to ask him to put them in the shop.

Pendraken's dead horse marker from the Napoleonic range.

Pendraken have a dead horse in their Napoleonic range. Unfortunately there are no pictures. I know it is a hassle putting pictures in online shops, but it makes a big difference to customers when they can see what they are ordering. They come in packets of 5 for a a few dollars. Good value really. Nice figure, lying down with I think a British type saddle. It would be nice to have a couple of saddle variants, but I imagine they aren't a big seller.

A bit of flock, tufts and rocks and all done.  The dials just stick together with the magnet and can easily be moved around. I plan on making one per regiment, so they can be discreetly placed on the table.

I am thinking of maybe making some with morale status on them, or little artillery ones with ammunition counters.

If any 10mm manufacturers are reading this please make some more casualty figures and maybe even some ambulances or wagons for wounded. They are so affordable in 10mm to have them on the field. They really add to the game.

Dials glued to the magnetic bases - steel and plywood circles on the left

A morning's work

Litko order tokens for Republic to Empire

I saw this idea on Curt's Analog Hobbies Blog which I thought was brilliant. The laser etched wood gives a very authentic look on the table, not too obvious but clear to see from a distance. I ordered a few more styles than Curt did to cover the different orders and unit states.

Jim from Litko was fantastic, fast service and great communications (sounds like an ebay review!). I had them made up when I got my .8mm wooden bases and magnetic underlays.

They fit very well with the 10mm figures. Now I need to make some casualty markers.

Basing for Republic to Empire

Republic to Empire is very flexible in its basing requirements, there is no "correct size or number of men needed on a base to be legal, as long as they are consistant.

I wanted some flexibility to have different unit formations represented on the table. Some rule sets have battallions based as one shape in the smaller scales, which I find a bit restrictive. But I also needed to consider not having them too small and fiddly on the table.

So I decided to investigate using magnetic bases for two reasons - one is they could be stuck to a thin piece of steel in the shape of the formation for ease of table movement, and two they would be less likely to move around when stored for transport. I plan to use some metal tool boxes to move them.


I sent off a custom order to Litko Game Accessories for some .8mm thick plywood bases with matching magnetic bases .5mm thick. Together they make a nice light base thay is not too thick for the figures.

Republic to Empire

My first adventures in Napoleonic wargaming, some 30 years ago, were with the Empire III rule set. The games were long and complex and took a while for my casual opponents to get used to.

Returning back to the era, I wanted to find a new "modern" set of rules. There was a free set of rules "March of the Eagles" in the Victrix 28mm plastics box written by Barry Hilton. I liked the mechanics and flow of the game, but it only covered infantry actions. Apparently there was a "full version" around somewhere.

Looking around the net I found it "Republic to Empire"by Barry Hilton. I ordered it and had a go. After an initial steep learning curve I find them a very enjoyable, smooth set of rules to play with. I started playing in 28mm but found it translates well to the 10mm scale buy converting all the movement lengths from inches to cms.

Highlights

• good order system, allowing the use of exploitation moves that are real game changers
• realistic treatment of artillery and the real estate it takes on the table
• good morale system
• fast play when you get used to the steps
• 1:20 man scale allowing bigger looking units
• inspiring pictures of miniatures though out the book
• excellent demonstration walkthrough at the end of the book

Things not so good

• not many diagrams of game mechanics
• no index
• no army lists (but accept the rationale about why not)
• no scenarios with the rules (although this may change with a suppliment)
• hard for solo play

Republic to Empire is available through the League of Augsburg site